How to Underbustle a Train

How to Underbustle a Train (French Bustle)

1) Measure the center back seam of train from the waistline seam to floor, as indicated by blue tape measure. Measure this distance from edge of train, as indicated by red tape measure; mark with pin.

2) Lift the center back seam at pin mark to waistline at center back; adjust the fold so train is 1/2" to 3/4" (1.3 to 2 cm) off the floor; pin to the waistline seam as shown.

3) Fold and pin train at each side back seam, so sides of the train are off the floor 1/2" to 3/4" (1.3 to 2 cm). Continue to fold and pin train as necessary between seams, to lift remaining train off the floor.

4) Release bustle, pin-marking points on train and waistline. Hand-stitch center of 15" (38 cm) length of narrow grosgrain ribbon to waistline at pin marks, between skirt lining and train; catch ribbon securely into waistline seam. Repeat to make remaining ties.

5) Cut 2 1/2" (6.5 cm) length of grosgrain ribbon; fold in half, and stitch loop securely to underside of train, 1/2" (1.3 cm) below pin mark; reinforce area with small piece of interfacing, or attach ribbon loop to seam allowances. Repeat for remaining pin marks.